|
Citrus Care (click here for printable PDF)
Watering
Good drainage is essential. Keep the soil moist. Don’t let the
tree dry out. In the ground maintain a deep basin as wide as the
tree. Citrus need a most soil and air for roots – avoid airless
and soggy soil. Allow time for it to drain between waterings. In
light, well-drained soil, water established trees about once a week
in dry weather. In heavy clay soils, the air spaces are tiny. Excess
water cannot drain away rapidly. Water deeply every two to three
weeks, or more in dry weather. Allow time for it to drain and the
surface to dry out, but don’t go so far as to let new growth wilt.
In well-drained containers, water about twice a week in normal
summer weather – more often during hot spells – less frequently
in the winter. Newly planted trees need more frequent watering until
they are established. If new growth wilts or leaves are dull, you
are waiting too long to water. If you observe excessive fruit and
leaf drop a few days after a heavy watering, the tree became too dry
before it was watered. In the future, be thorough and consistent –
don’t let the tree dry out.
Suckering
Know where the graft is on your tree. Remove all growth below it –
it is worthless and takes vitality away from the top. This is especially
so with younger trees. Suckers are generally very vigorous and
thorny and have quite a different leaf than the top. Remove them as
soon as observed.
Pruning
Even though we discourage pruning, trees may be pruned to any
desired shape. They will look fuller with occasional pruning to
shape leggy branches. Pinching back tips of new growth will help
trees to round out. Some trees may develop erratic thorny juvenile
growth above the graft. If so, cut it back at any time. Avoid
pruning in cold winter months to ensure best protection against
cold. Pruning can be done any other time of the year.
Mulches
Liberal use of mulches will conserve precious water. Less water is
needed as evaporation is reduced and weeds are inhibited. To avoid
root diseases, keep mulch at least 6” away from the tree trunk.
Fruit
Drop
Trees may set more fruit than they actually produce: there will be a
certain amount of fruit that will fall off. Only 5% of the initial
flowering on a healthy tree can develop into a normal crop. When a
mild spring turns to hot summer, the tree is under stress. When dry
winds coincide with insufficient watering, the tree is under stress.
Lack of fertilizer at proper times in the spring will cause stress.
Application of fertilizer after flowering and before the fruit is
golf ball size will cause stress and fruit drop. During critical
fruit development trees should be watered sufficiently.
Fertilizing
Citrus are heavy feeders. It is best to use a balanced fertilizer,
which contains nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus (18-6-12, for
example) and trace elements such as iron, zinc and manganese.
Fertilize regularly as directed on the label. However, we recommend
fertilizing lightly all year round. Yellowing leaves are an
indication of lack of fertilizer or poor drainage.
Minor
Elements
Citrus trees may develop deficiencies of minor food elements. Zinc,
iron and manganese are important elements, especially for younger
trees. We recommend using a citrus food that has at least these
three elements. Check the fertilizer label. It will list the amount
of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorous, as well as any minor
elements.
Salt Burn
Salt burn is the appearance of brown dry edges around the leaf or
spots, similar to a burned leaf. Improper watering and poor soil
drainage, as well as improper feeding usually bring this problem on.
To correct salt burn apply gypsum and Dispersul in February along
with regular citrus feeding and again in May and September. Gypsum
is inexpensive and will keep your soil free of salt buildup. Apply
at the following rates: Dispersul – two pounds per 100 square
feet; Gypsum – five pounds per 100 square feet. Do not feed
nitrogen to plants showing signs of salt burn until you have
corrected the soil problems. This could also have a burning effect
on the trees.
Pest
Control
Fortunately, citrus have few insects. Aphids can appear in early
spring as well as thrips, which cause crinkled leaves and also red
mites. Since trees have edible fruit, insecticides should be used
sparingly and carefully. Keep tree free from insects by washing dust
off foliage occasionally with water. Always read and follow all
directions carefully on pesticide labels and wear required
protective clothing. Measure amount to be used carefully to prevent
damage to tree. There are insecticides available for use on citrus
at both Harper’s locations. We don’t recommend spraying if the
temperature is above 90 degrees or below 40 degrees, or if it is
windy.
Frost
Protection
The age, location and
condition of the tree, and degree and duration of cold determine
possible frost damage. Frost warnings and reported frost damage
generally refer to the fruit, not the tree. Older, established tree
have survived prolonged cold spells down to 26 degrees with little
difficulty. It’s not much of a chore to move or cover your dwarf
tree if a cold night is forecast. Frost cloth can be left on during
the day if needed. Do not trim freeze damaged trees
until new growth pinpoints the dead wood.
Gummosis
Gummosis
is a fungal disease caused by exposing trunks of citrus to too much
moisture. It is also known as Brown Rot Gummosis and Foot Rot. It is
a brown gummy discoloration of the inner layer of the tree. If it
goes completely around the trunk it may kill the tree. To prevent,
never let trunk stand in water. Build a berm around but away from
trunk to keep irrigation water from wetting it. If the trees are
infected, remove discolored bark to the point just beyond the
infection and treat with a Bordeaux paste mixture.
(back
to the top)
|
